T.W. Food, Cambridge, MA

When Diego asked me where I wanted to have my birthday celebration this year, there was no doubt in my mind that T.W. Food was the place. We had been there once for one of their magnificent Improv. nights and I got totally hooked. In improv night, the chefs improvised five dishes per person using the day's ingredients (you could ask for the list in advance). The place was crowded the night we went (about ten two-people tables) and every single person got something different during the two hours we spent there.

They don't do these anymore, but the idea remains. Chef Wiechmann is not afraid of changing the menu on a daily basis in order to use the freshest and best ingredients. Last Sunday, the squash bisque was lobster's, the smoked pastrami hash was actually a Beef and tongue hash, the omelet was accompanied by kale instead of bok choi, and the salmon was beet-smoked instead of spice-smoked. And these were the changes we noticed; there may have been many more subtle differences in the menu that we may have overlooked.

Brunch comes as prix-fix (coffee or orange juice, one starter, one entree and one dessert or cocktail for $29) or a la carte from the prix-fix menu. For a succulent and rich meal, the prix fix is certainly a good deal. There is one item in the menu for every personality and every dish comes with a range of components; you don't feel like that money could buy much more (well, maybe if you are the type who goes to all-you-can-eat buffets to find out how much you can actually eat!) somewhere else. I guess my only complaint is that you have to choose between coffee and OJ, and the freshly squeezed OJ is actually quite expensive ($5). So, this is actually a $35 prix fix...

In any case, we splurged and went with two prix fix plus two OJs. Diego had the charcuterie duo: a chicken liver mousse and a pate with pistachio, raisins and foie grass. Both meats were delicious. The mousse was soft and delicate, almost like a cream of chicken liver, and the pate was superbly made. My simpler palate called for simpler food, so I ordered the bakery plate: a chocolate-almond muffin that I would be immensely happy to have in my daily breakfast (albeit slightly oily) and orange-cranberry scones with homemade blueberry marmalade that was to die for. I could have gone home more than happy if that was it.

But, then came the entrees, also great. Diego had the beef and tongue hash with poached eggs

and biscuit, which were slightly salty for my taste but perfect according to Diego. He also
saidsomething about the eggs being "strangely cooked", but he couldn't really pinpoint what was strange about them and was overall very happy with his plate. I had the beet-smoked salmon. Let me just say that, regardless of the taste, this is visually impressive. The salmon was batik-dyed in deep red and the originality of it is undeniable. It tasted like any normal smoked salmon, a flavor that was complimented by a salad of cattle beans, greens and pears.

By then we were certainly no longer hungry. Still, we delved into the desserts with all our strengths. Diego took a while to finish his dark chocolate budinno, but ended up scrapping the bottom of the cup, last pieces of rock salt and the last drops of olive oil included. I couldn't finish my grapefruit panna cota, wich looked like a latte but tasted like heaven. I don't really like cinnamon, but the cinnamon gélée was perfect; it added to the texture without overpowering the taste.

I don't think this was the perfect brunch. By now you should now that I like open spaces, preferably with sidewalk tables, and tiny T.W. Food is neither. In addition, brunch should give you energies to continue with your day, and this feast could only be followed by a nap. But, this is quite possibly my favorite restaurant in the world, and that means we will certainly be back.