Saturday, May 12, 2012

Fortnum and Mason, London UK

We had eggs and salmon: Rare Breed Hen Egg with Mustard Cress and Oak Smoked Salmon with Lemon Butter. We also had pastries and superb fruit preserves. We could have had alcohol (champagne). They would have probably kicked us out if we asked for coffee, but there was definitely all you can drink tea. We sat with friends and we could have stayed there the whole afternoon if we had wanted it.
Sounds like the perfect brunch, right? It was actually Afternoon Tea at Fortnum and Mason, London's oldest department store.
We only had one Sunday in London and we had had a hard time deciding between afternoon tea and brunch. After all, that's where "English breakfast" comes from! But Fortnum's regal setting, elegant three-tier trays and delicious teas had been on our to-do list since a previous trip and we decided not to let the opportunity pass.
Tea is a big deal in England, but it is even a bigger deal at Fortnum's. They serve some version of afternoon tea at each one of its four restaurants. For £18.00 you can get brisk (and crowded) all-day tea service at The Parlour, that comes with two scones (with strawberry preserves), mini ice creams and a pot of tea. £26.00 (at The Gallery) and £28.00 (at The Fountain, only at 4 o'clock) get you better service in nicer rooms, with afternoon sandwiches or seafood entrees, cupcakes or bonbons (instead of the ice creams). 
But, the crowning jewel of Fortnum's afternoon tea is served at "The Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon". Earlier this year the salon was reopened by none other than the Queen herself -with Kate and Camilla in tow!- and apparently the refurbishing has left it better than ever. The subtle Victorian style is played up by the light green upholstery and bright white walls. We went on a sunny afternoon and the sun was shining through the many windows that surround both tea rooms. To top it all, there was a live piano player that really soothed the service. 
Afternoon tea at this fourth floor restaurant is, granted, expensive, but it is also luxurious, well-paced and delicate. The porcelain is divine and the three-tier trays are every girl's dream. Sweetener is a heresy and sugar -brown and white- comes in cubes. 
Food-wise we had five types of finger sandwiches: 1) Coronation chicken, fresh mango and chilli; 2) Cucumber and cream cheese; 3) Roast beef, horseradish and capers; 4) Rare breed hen and mustard cress; and 5) Oak smoked salmon with lemon butter. Service also came with the aforementioned two scones (one plain, one raisin) but instead of being stuck with strawberry jam, we got apricot, raspberry and blueberry (one for each -we were with our friend Andres!- and you may also get lemon or strawberry). When we left, we took the (Fortnum's famous) preserves with us. On the top tier of the tray came a tasting of refined pastries: pistachio and raspberry, chocolate and apricot, almond creme puff and rose eclair. When we thought we couldn't eat no more, we were reminded of the cake carriage. I went with flower and kettle-cake tea cookies (to go), while Diego tried HM the Queen's favorite cake (vanilla and strawberry checkered) and Andres had a couple of bites from a huge pink marzipan-coverd raspberry cake. 
By now you may be wondering... where is the tea?? I usually save the best for the end, so here it goes. Every time we are in London we buy one or two types of the many of Fortnum's classic blends and bring them to Boston. So, we got really excited by the prospect of trying out some new blends. The tea list includes 30 types of single estate teas (rarer and more expensive) and almost 50 types of blends, blacks, greens and herbals. I had the Countess Grey, an orangier twist on Earl Grey, and Diego went with one of the Assams. They bring out just one pot, but there are plenty of leaves, so you can keep asking for water refills.
Alright. This was clearly not the perfect brunch.... maybe the perfect afternoon tea?